August 31, 2020
Learning How to Travel Again
After a decade on the road, a traveler learns to rediscover the fear and exhilaration of his first ever solo journeys. Just over ten years ago. Sitting in the living…
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January 18, 2020
Assault on the Senses
A writer attempts to describe the intensity of India while avoiding the ultimate cliché. When the journalist Christopher Hitchens went to Prague during the final years of communism, he made…
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December 5, 2019
Tirana from all Angles
In the streets of Albania, a traveler finds evidence of a country trying to distance itself from its political past. Editor's note: This article was written before the world's deadliest…
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September 11, 2019
On Wanderlust and Whitman: Interview with Photojournalist B.A. Van Sise
On any given day, you may find B.A. Van Sise teaching a photography course in Mongolia, testing vintage film in Kosovo, touring with the Cuban National Circus, or riding shotgun…
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March 18, 2019
Twenty Thousand Kilometers of Nowhere
It happened again. An old man this time. Long white hair melting into his beard. Eyes glazed over. The plump woman shouted “Oi! You gotta pay for that!” She ran…
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February 26, 2019
Madrid – Mysteries Overlooked
Madrid is a languid rush. As in all big cities, people look ahead and walk with purpose. Yet they move slowly. Pedestrians habitually pause in the middle of the street,…
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October 16, 2018
Some Corner of a Foreign Field
The Story of Five New Zealand POW’s Buried in Poznan, Poland A New Zealand expat in Poznan discovers the story of five countrymen buried far from home. First published in…
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August 24, 2018
In Search of My Family’s Jewish History in Lublin, Poland
Walking across the border from Slovakia into Poland felt like crossing into Narnia. The bridge that connects the two countries was covered in snow, surrounded by white mountains and frost…
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July 9, 2018
Surviving Baijiu, China’s Pungent Grain Alcohol
My friend paused, holding the small bottle in his hand. It was dark, and for a moment the streets of Kunming seemed to grow silent. The cars stopped honking. The…
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June 7, 2018
Conquering the World’s Spiciest Hotpot in Chongqing, China
30.1 million people - greater than the population of New Zealand, Australia and Scotland combined. A city of skyscrapers erupting chaotically out of cloud strewn mountains like fungus on a…
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