Category

South America

South America
September 7, 2020

Unequal

In a music filled square in Cartagena, travelers and refugees drink beer, swap stories, and attempt to bridge the chasm that exists between two worlds. The air was heavy with…
Read More
South America
July 14, 2020

Just Scared

A diver-in-training finds herself in the middle of a near panic attack more than 100 feet underwater. How she chooses to handle it teaches her more about herself than the…
Read More
South America
June 25, 2020

Written in the Stars

While lounging in the hot springs of Baños, Ecuador, a traveler encounters a stranger who attempts to predict her romantic future. Grey nose hair is the first thing I see…
Read More
South America
May 31, 2020

J’ouvert Morning

Trinidad and Tobago's annual J'ouvert festival wakes a traveler and pulls her into the traditional madness and revelry of the day. In the early hours of a February Monday, I…
Read More
South America
March 18, 2020

Saturn Always Comes Back

A writer researching the Kolla peoples of Argentina hears the story of their fight for freedom from an elderly nurse and former slave. The first time I met Saturnino Vargas,…
Read More
South America
October 25, 2019

Especially Tonight

In the mystifying tango salons of Argentina, a writer attempts to mend a broken heart. A woman dressed in black is sitting alone inside a café, and I wonder if…
Read More
South America
July 31, 2019

The Slow Boat to Manaus

Life is pretty routine when you're traveling the Amazon river by cargo ship: Every day you wake up at exactly 5.30AM and mingle with people from another world. Tiny white…
Read More
South America
July 26, 2019

Meeting Pachamama on the Salkantay Trail

On an out-of-the-way hiking trail in the Andes, an American traveler gets a helping hand from the local deity. “First, we give to Pachamama,” Chachi said, opening his bottle of…
Read More
South America
June 10, 2019

The Donkey and the Cellphone

Spanish language and stars make for a heady moment on Lake Titicaca, on the border of Peru and Bolivia. “Here,” my teacher said, handing me a cup of mate de…
Read More
South America
June 28, 2018

Fear and Perspective in Guayaquil, Ecuador

When a 21 year old female solo traveler finds herself in Ecuador's most infamous city, even a short walk to the bank feels like Mission Impossible. “¿Hablas Español?” The taxi driver…
Read More