September 7, 2020
Unequal
In a music filled square in Cartagena, travelers and refugees drink beer, swap stories, and attempt to bridge the chasm that exists between two worlds. The air was heavy with…
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July 14, 2020
Just Scared
A diver-in-training finds herself in the middle of a near panic attack more than 100 feet underwater. How she chooses to handle it teaches her more about herself than the…
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June 25, 2020
Written in the Stars
While lounging in the hot springs of Baños, Ecuador, a traveler encounters a stranger who attempts to predict her romantic future. Grey nose hair is the first thing I see…
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May 31, 2020
J’ouvert Morning
Trinidad and Tobago's annual J'ouvert festival wakes a traveler and pulls her into the traditional madness and revelry of the day. In the early hours of a February Monday, I…
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March 18, 2020
Saturn Always Comes Back
A writer researching the Kolla peoples of Argentina hears the story of their fight for freedom from an elderly nurse and former slave. The first time I met Saturnino Vargas,…
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October 25, 2019
Especially Tonight
In the mystifying tango salons of Argentina, a writer attempts to mend a broken heart. A woman dressed in black is sitting alone inside a café, and I wonder if…
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July 31, 2019
The Slow Boat to Manaus
Life is pretty routine when you're traveling the Amazon river by cargo ship: Every day you wake up at exactly 5.30AM and mingle with people from another world. Tiny white…
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July 26, 2019
Meeting Pachamama on the Salkantay Trail
On an out-of-the-way hiking trail in the Andes, an American traveler gets a helping hand from the local deity. “First, we give to Pachamama,” Chachi said, opening his bottle of…
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June 10, 2019
The Donkey and the Cellphone
Spanish language and stars make for a heady moment on Lake Titicaca, on the border of Peru and Bolivia. “Here,” my teacher said, handing me a cup of mate de…
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June 28, 2018
Fear and Perspective in Guayaquil, Ecuador
When a 21 year old female solo traveler finds herself in Ecuador's most infamous city, even a short walk to the bank feels like Mission Impossible. “¿Hablas Español?” The taxi driver…
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