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Travel journal

EuropeTravel journal
August 24, 2018

In Search of My Family’s Jewish History in Lublin, Poland

Walking across the border from Slovakia into Poland felt like crossing into Narnia. The bridge that connects the two countries was covered in snow, surrounded by white mountains and frost…
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Travel journal
June 11, 2018

The Local Bus

After a 9 day hike through the mountains of Western Nepal, Thomas Heaton was looking forward to a comfortable ride back to Pokhara. Then the local bus pulled up... I…
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AsiaChinaTravel journal
June 7, 2018

Conquering the World’s Spiciest Hotpot in Chongqing, China

30.1 million people - greater than the population of New Zealand, Australia and Scotland combined. A city of skyscrapers erupting chaotically out of cloud strewn mountains like fungus on a…
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EuropeTravel journal
April 24, 2018

Thieves, Horseradish Vodka and St Sophia

How to Get a Meal in Kiev Kiev’s metro makes little sense. Below the main railway station commuters are funneled through an impossible labyrinth of white concrete tunnels, ending in…
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EuropeTravel journal
March 28, 2018

Nightfall in Wrocław Square

Western brands in the polished white shopping mall vanish as you exit, take the escalator, and find yourself in Poznan's grey, sooty train station. Down another escalator, outside and across…
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EuropeTravel journal
January 18, 2018

The Refugee Opera Singer from Iran

He was sitting at the table chatting to my friend when I came back from the bathroom. Dressed like a rock star, perfectly coiffed hair, contoured beard, a stud in…
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Travel journal
December 11, 2017

The Astana Express – Night Train Through Kazakhstan

Pause at an intersection to check directions to Almaty railway station. A young man approaches, his thin face shiny with sweat. He goes to speak and his eyeballs swim in…
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Travel journal
November 8, 2017

A Dip in the Caspian Sea

The sweaty grip of another border crossing. Azerbaijan at our backs, watchtowers among the trees. We're waved through a gate, and park in a small hanger. Officials stroll to and…
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Travel journal
October 28, 2017

The Petrol Merchants of Uzbekistan

The antique streets of Bukhara weave around ancient mosques and crumbling walls of brown clay. You can imagine camels happily clopping by, perhaps pausing for a hearty spit into the…
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Travel journal
September 5, 2017

On Crossing a Border

During a drive from Europe to Central Asia, the author contemplates the experience of crossing a border. Borders, like nation states, are artificial. They would not exist if it weren't…
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